My 1928 Chevrolet: Installing a 6 to 12 volt converter into the Red Chev (updated 4th Nov)

The purpose of this Blog

This blog is to detail my 50 years (1973 - 2023) with a 1928 Chevrolet tourer, affectionately called "The Red Chev".

The acquisition, restoration, improvements and my experiences over the years are covered in as much detail as I can remember.

Some of the later postings include car club outings and other vintage car items that I hope will be of interest to people.

If you have the time, scroll back to where it all began in 1973 and follow the journey so far.

Thanks for dropping by.

Regards Ray Dean

See my new section "The Red Chev - Repairs, Improvements, Maintenance and Technical Details" located on the left hand side of the screen.

Saturday, November 2, 2013

Installing a 6 to 12 volt converter into the Red Chev (updated 4th Nov)

Driving the Red Chev more these days, I have been concerned by the fluctuation of the drum speedo, even though I reconditioned it in 2010.

In my daily work car the GPS appears more accurate than a modern speedo, so if its good enough for a 2011 Commodore, why not for the Red Chev. Highway speeds in the Red Chev are not a worry as I don't reach the 100 KPH speed limit, but it's good to know how fast or slow you are going.

My concern for travelling at the right speed is related to the 60 and 70 KPH zones.

After asking around to see what was available I called into Jaycar Electronics new store in Fern Tree Gully and bought up a few parts to "make my own" 6 to 12 volt converter. The aim is to have a set up that can not be seen when not in use.

Parts and prices were

AA0264 Module Converter DC / DC 6-14 v / 11 - 26 v @ $44.95
PS2009 SKT Cig Lighter Double under Dash @ $12.95
RP3508 Potentiometer @ $2.25
SZ2015 Fuse Holder Inline @ $1.75
SF2200 (Pack 10) 5 amp fuses @ $3.50

The converter is the heart of the set up.

I went for a twin outlet socket (to run both a GPS and charge a mobile phone), which when fitted will be completely out of site.

Yes Virginia, this is a potentiometer.

The converter instructions call for a large heat sink area, which normally would be the firewall, but as it also requires a temperature below 60 degrees, I decided it was safer to install the whole set up on a mild steel bracket 9" x 2.5", which I made, predrilled and painted before the final fit up under the dashboard, which will be out of sight unless a lead is plugged in.

After a few minor adjustments, everything was bolted into place. You will see by the angle of the converter that I did not allow enough space for connecting the potentiometer. If I had my time again I would turn the converter 90 degrees to the left so the wires fed into the middle of the bracket.

A 5 amp in line fuse is installed in the positive wire to the outlook sockets, with another in the inlet wire to the converter. The set up is controlled by a toggle switch installed in the dash. and is only powered when the ignition is on.

We have contact

Voltage looks good, but I question how effective the potentiometer is at the base minimum output as adjustment makes no change to output and voltage can range from 12.2 up to 14.2.